The Popular Mexican Staple Lidia Bastianich Refuses To Cook With
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Lidia Bastianich commands attention in the world of Italian American cooking. Beyond being a renowned chef, she has penned multiple cookbooks, hosted acclaimed TV programs, and co-owns New York City’s Eataly—a sprawling paradise of Italian foods and ingredients. Yet her culinary curiosity isn’t confined to Italy alone. She’s journeyed far and wide, savoring flavors from Asia to Mexico. Still, no matter how she adores Mexican street tacos or the country’s chiles and moles, cilantro is something she simply cannot stand.
In an interview with In Kansas City, Bastianich shared, “There is something about [cilantro] that makes me feel like I have a mouthful of soap when I taste it. It must be in my genes.” She’s not alone in this sentiment. Cilantro can be one of the most polarizing herbs, with many people describing its taste as soapy. It’s a trait that even famous chefs have confessed sharing. Julia Child reportedly disliked cilantro, and Ina Garten has spoken about her own aversion as well. The idea that cilantro aversion might be genetic isn’t without merit.
Research into taste genetics suggests some individuals carry genes that alter how they smell and taste cilantro, leading to a strong sense of soapy flavors. Interestingly, cuisines that rely heavily on cilantro, such as Mexican and Indian fare, tend to have fewer people with this genetic sensitivity.
What can you use instead of cilantro if you’re not a fan?
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For some, cilantro is essential to salsas and as a bright finishing touch on Mexican dishes. Others, like Bastianich, prefer to skip it altogether. Italian cooking, by contrast, doesn’t lean on cilantro, so her core strengths remain unaffected. If you’re looking to replace cilantro in Mexican, Asian, Indian, or Central American recipes, a few options can deliver comparable freshness. Culantro, a herb often described as tasting like a combination of parsley and lemon, is one possibility. Some people also turn to parsley for brightness, or to basil for a warmer, sweeter lift. A dash of fresh lime juice can add tart vibrancy, while dill or mint can offer different aromatic notes. You can also mix several herbs to create a layered, nuanced profile. If you crave more peppery greens, arugula can contribute a lively flourish. True cilantro lovers may insist nothing beats the real herb, but experimenting with these substitutes can yield enjoyable, surprising results.
