The Windup Watch Fair in Chicago is a treasure trove for watch enthusiasts, offering a diverse range of brands, styles, and price points. This year's event was no exception, with several new and exciting watches on display. Here are five notable picks that caught my eye, each with its own unique charm and appeal.
Vulcain Cricket Titanium
Alarm watches are a niche within a niche, and the Vulcain Cricket is a timeless classic. Its mechanical alarm function adds a layer of charm and practicality, even if it's more of a parlor trick at watch meetups. The new Vulcain Cricket Titanium takes this iconic design to the next level. The polished titanium case is both lightweight and comfortable, and the dial, also in titanium with a stamped guilloche pattern, is a visual masterpiece. The movement revealed through the caseback is an added bonus, making this watch a true standout. While the alarm function may not be practical for most, the overall aesthetic and craftsmanship make it a must-have for any watch enthusiast.
Horage Relik Tourbillon 3
Horage is making waves in the world of Swiss tourbillons, offering high-quality pieces at surprisingly accessible prices. The Relik Tourbillon 3, unveiled in April, showcases their expertise in this exclusive complication. The purple variant, in particular, is a stunning example of skeletonization, providing a unique view of the movement from the dial side. The lattice-like dial work is not only aesthetically pleasing but also easy to read, ensuring practicality. At 38.5mm and 10mm tall, it strikes a perfect balance between size and visibility. While the price of just under $13,500 may be considered a luxury item, it represents an incredible value in the realm of Swiss tourbillons, solidifying Horage's position as a brand to watch.
Atelier Wen Perception V3
Atelier Wen has mastered the art of incremental improvements, and the Perception V3 is a testament to their dedication. This third iteration of the Perception watch is slightly thinner, resulting in improved wearability. The upgraded movement, a Pequinet with a 65-hour power reserve, ensures reliability. However, the most impressive aspect is the enhanced finishing, featuring higher polished facets and bead-blasted surfaces that create a striking contrast. The Perception V3, priced at $4,850, justifies its cost by offering a more luxurious feel and a higher baseline level of craftsmanship. With the brand's expansion into tantalum pieces, Atelier Wen is raising the bar for itself and setting a new standard for watchmaking.
Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT Limited Edition
As a Chicago-based brand, Oak & Oscar knows how to celebrate its hometown show. The limited-edition Humboldt GMT, a signature piece for the brand, features a black dial with crisp white text and a black PVD-coated bezel insert. The true standout, however, is the laser-engraved caseback, showcasing the Chicago skyline. Crafted in-house using the brand's own machinery, this attention to detail is a testament to Oak & Oscar's commitment to quality and innovation. Their ethos of tinkering and experimentation has led to impressive advancements over the years, making them a brand to watch (pun intended) in the micro-independent watchmaking scene.
Final Thoughts
The Windup Watch Fair in Chicago showcased a diverse array of watches, each with its own unique appeal. From the timeless charm of the Vulcain Cricket Titanium to the innovative Horage Relik Tourbillon 3, and the refined Atelier Wen Perception V3, these picks offer a glimpse into the exciting world of watchmaking. Oak & Oscar's limited-edition Humboldt GMT, with its Chicago skyline caseback, adds a local touch to the fair. As the industry continues to evolve, these brands are pushing boundaries, offering something for every taste and budget.
