In a world obsessed with fleeting digital moments, Belgian designer Julie Kegels' Fall 2026 collection, "Face Value," dares to explore the enduring power and inherent fragility of our constructed image.
Imagine this: the stark, almost unsettling sound of violins playing off-key, as models move with a deliberate slowness that forces your gaze. This isn't about the quick scroll of a social media feed; it's about making you *look, really look, at the very *construction of the garments**. In an era where the next viral post is king, Kegels is championing the art of the tangible, the beautifully made.
But where does this fascination with image come from? Kegels dives deep, drawing inspiration from Andy Warhol's concept of "aura" – that intangible quality that makes something or someone unique and captivating. She also looks to the mesmerizing, long-exposure portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, whose work itself is a nod to the existential ponderings of philosopher Martin Heidegger. The core question here is: how do we navigate the space between our public persona and our true selves? Is the "aura" we project a genuine reflection, or a carefully crafted shield?
And this is the part most people miss: beneath all this intellectual exploration lies a collection that is, quite simply, intriguingly wearable. Kegels has managed to marry profound ideas with practical, stylish pieces.
Think of capes that seem to defy gravity, flowing from shoulders only to mysteriously attach at the ankles, creating a ghostly, ethereal silhouette. Jackets, rather than being worn conventionally, are artfully reimagined as dresses. Pajama tops are transformed into opulent gowns, and a simple white button-down shirt takes on the dramatic sweep of a cape. Even a skirt can appear to be falling apart, only to elegantly cascade into a stylish side drape.
How does one achieve such transformative designs? Kegels employs a fascinating technique: she photographs garments in her Antwerp atelier, manipulating the light to create dramatic shadows. These distorted patterns then become the blueprints for entirely new forms. It's like taking a familiar object and seeing it through a completely new lens.
Elsewhere, she utilizes what she calls "forced tailoring." This isn't about restricting the body, but about guiding it into a more confident, almost assertive posture. Sleeves are cut to push the arms forward with a precision that might remind you of a military uniform. And in a playful twist, shrunken pullovers are dramatically sliced open at the back of the shoulders, allowing the fabric to pop out like vibrant, colorful wings.
Backstage, Kegels explained her vision: “The aura is a shield,” she stated. “We always have an appearance, but maybe the appearance is not true to what there is inside. The Julie Kegels woman will always want to control something, but it is always imperfect.” This notion of imperfect control is key. We strive for a polished image, but the cracks and imperfections are often what make us human and relatable.
But here's where it gets controversial: Kegels deliberately highlights the exposed seams and leaves some edges unfinished. This could be seen as a bold statement against the perfectionist ideals often associated with high fashion. When she noticed that her intended sharp, jagged hats were inadvertently evoking the charmingly simple headgear of the cartoon bird Calimero, she embraced the irony. This led her to incorporate more childlike references, such as cozy baby blankets ingeniously repurposed as wrap skirts. Is it a celebration of innocence, or a subtle critique of the sometimes overly serious nature of the fashion world?
As Andy Warhol famously mused, our "aura" might vanish the moment we speak. Yet, in Kegels' masterful hands, the right outfit possesses the power to sustain that carefully curated image, at least for a little while longer. What do you think? Does fashion have the power to create and maintain our "aura," or is it merely a fleeting illusion? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below!
